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主打菜 Editor's Pick |
text / photo. Kevin、Ivy |
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Tapas – The New Dim Sum?
Tapas is Spanish for snacks or appetizers. This Spanish culinary tradition resembles Cantonese-style dim sum or Northern Chinese small plates in that they all refer to tasty local flavours presented on small plates. In Spain, tapas are often served with sherry – in part because it’s tradition, and in part because they seem so perfectly matched and are so tasty together.
The tradition of Tapas originated when Spanish bartenders used to cover and serve glasses of wines with slices of bread. Soon the bread slices were topped with cheese, olives, sausages or ham, and, as such, became perfect bar snacks. In the old days, tapas were served free with your glass of wine in Spanish bars. Nowadays tapas have become part of Spain’s culinary identity. It’s as popular and distinctive as British high tea and Italian pasta. | |
In Greater Vancouver, restaurants that specialize in tapas are growing both in numbers and in popularity for good reasons. Firstly, many of them are inventive and boast their own styles – from the use of ingredients to the chef’s cooking. Secondly, tapas are like dim sum, they come in smaller portions, so diners can try more different dishes while enjoying sharing them. Lastly, these small plates often come with smaller prices - so you can spend as much or as little as you like – making “Tapas” an easy, casual dining option.
Is “Tapas” the new “Dim Sum”? Let’s go out and check out four different Tapas restaurants - they are located in different neighbourhoods and they each have their very distinct character – and see what all the excitement is about! |
| Heat & Passion: Fusion Tapas |
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White Rock restaurants are well-known for their ocean views and relaxing atmosphere. On scenic Marine Drive, we find 14981 Fusion Cuisine, a Tapas restaurant that is fast gaining a reputation for their particular brand of cooking and hospitality. Owned and operated by two brothers who had neither formal culinary training nor previous experience in running a restaurant, it is a success story that shows what having the courage to chase a dream and a passion for food can achieve.
Before opening the restaurant, older brother, Dennis, an auto mechanic, and younger brother, Benny, who was in the computer business, were on very different career paths. But they both love good food, and share the dream of one day owning a high quality restaurant. Undaunted by the fact that they were not pros, they set out to hone their skills in cooking by collecting and poring over cookbooks, eating out and tasting the food from different chefs, then experimenting and perfecting their own recipes in their kitchen. True to their Chinese heritage, they audaciously incorporated Asian ingredients and techniques into their cooking, and finally, after much hard work, created a line-up of some thirty tapas dishes that would be the basis of their menu. According to Dennis, no time or expense were spared in their hunt for the best ingredients. They tasted through fifteen varieties of ducks and 60 steaks before settling on the duck breast and steak they would use on the menu. And that was just the beginning.
The restaurant is now three years old and everything is well on track. Dennis manages the front-of-the-house, greeting and explaining to new customers how different menu items can be shared and enjoyed, while Benny mans the stoves and is in charge of the food. When it comes to quality control, they both take a hands-on approach on selecting top-notch ingredients, and if they run out of an item, they’d sooner take it off the menu than substitute with product of inferior quality. Their insistence on quality and the restaurant’s fresh approach to dining are attracting many regulars who, after they dine at 14981, are asking Dennis for handfuls of his business cards so they can go out and spread the word about the place. |
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01 Curry Mussels
14981 only uses live mussels, never fast-frozen ones. A solid pound of plump, sweet mussels are steamed in a rich, tasty curry sauce made from a blend of seven secret spices. Served with fluffy roti on the side for sopping up the sauce, it’s addictive! | |
02 Pan-Roasted Black Cod with Prawns
The black cod is marinated in Japanese miso and Chinese soy sauce, then roasted over low heat to keep the fish fatty, moist and savoury. The accompanying tiger prawns are tasty and the fried lotus root chips add great texture and crunch.
03 Shitake Dusted Scallops
The hand-picked giant scallops, meaty and juicy, come on a cushion of shiitake and velvety yam puree and are garnished with a sprinkle of mushroom powder. According to the chef, the secret to getting a creamy smooth yam puree is to strain the mashed yam through a fine sieve.
04 Lavender Lamb Rackl
This dish of tender and juicy Australian rack of lamb is the result of hours of testing by Dennis and Benny. Marinated in lavender, rosemary and thyme and other spices, the chops are perfectly trimmed and cooked. The standard portion is comes with two chops but if there are three in your party you are welcome to ask for an extra chop when you order. The price will be prorated accordingly.
05 Balsamic Beef Short Ribs
Perfect braised beef short ribs requires that the thickness of ribs be even to ensure proper doneness. This east-meets-west version, marinated overnight with Chinese fermented black beans and balsamic vinegar, is unique and very tasty. |
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14981 Fusion Cuisine
14981 Marine Drive, White Rock
604-541-3668 |
| Happy Days - Metro’s Tapas |
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For many people, Tsawwassen - situated at the Southwest corner of the British Columbia mainland - is synonymous with the ferry terminal nearby. Because of this we often overlook the quiet township and what the restaurants have to offer there. Tonight, let’s leave the city behind and go experience some tapas in Tsawwassen. You may be pleasantly surprised!
Metro’s Tapas & Tini’s is barely a year old. The room is cosy, well-appointed and comfortable. From Monday to Friday, a selection of tapas, priced between $7 to $10, are offered during Happy Hour from 5-7pm.
Chef Pat, classically trained in French cuisine and an Asian food enthusiast, remarked that the concept of Tapas is very similar to Chinese Dim Sum especially in the smaller portion size and the custom of sharing. He told us a story about how Tapas got started: There are a lot of flies in Spain; and in order to prevent flies from falling into the wine glasses, restaurateurs started putting out small plates of food to cover the glasses.
As time went by, it developed into a special feature of Spanish cuisine. He also pointed out that while Tapas originated in Spain, Tapas in Canada are mostly “fusion” in style, combining ingredients and cooking technique from all over the world. Because of this, there is so much potential to create and improvise. That’s why he’s committed to producing new tapas dishes from time to time to keep his customers entertained. |
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01 Fois-Gras on Roasted
Red Pepper Polenta
Chef Pat cautions that because of fois gras is very fatty, it will melt if cooked for too long. He suggest to poach it gently then wind-dry for one week before serving. He serves the slices of foie gras over red pepper polenta with a Frangelico Demisauce. |
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02 Seared Sea Scallops
Scallops are often used in tapas. Chef Pat only chooses large 10-20/lb. scallops for this dish. He dips the scallops in black sesame seeds and pan-fry them until medium. They are then plated and garnished with just enough green and red chilli sauces so that the spiciness doesn’t mask the taste of the scallops.
03 Asian Duck Confit
Combining Chinese and French ingredients and techniques, fresh duck legs are marinated in five Asian spices and ginger then simmered in duck fat for 2 hours. The duck meat is served over a bed of green beans and fried yams and garnished with cross-hatched drizzles of sweet mandarin and cherry sauces. Colourful and tasty, it’s a tempting dish.
04 Dungeness Crab & Pecan Tart
Pecan is added to tart shell batter to enhance texture and taste. The filling is made with Dungeness crab meat, cream cheese, fresh cream, eggs and garlic. The accompanying house-made smoked tomato sauce and caramelized green apple slices not only lend complexity to the taste, they also earn chef extra points for the artistic plate presentation. |
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Metro’s Tapas & Tini’s
1203 56th St., Delta
604-943-1575 | |
| A Taste of the Old Country - Bodega Tapas |
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When we think of Spain, we think of bull-fighting, flamenco, maybe even soccer. But if you love food, you think of Tapas. Spain is where Tapas originated, hundreds of years ago. While most of Vancouver’s trendy tapas bars are “fusion” in style, La Bodega Restaurante & Tapa-Bar, located in downtown Vancouver, serves strictly authentic Spanish tapas, pure and unadulterated by foreign influences.
If you think Tapas is just a new trend on the Vancouver food scene, think again. When Paco opened La Bodega 36 years ago, very few Vancouverites knew what tapas were, so most of his customers were Spanish expatriates looking for a taste of the old country. And true to tradition, apart from Friday lunches, La Bodega is open in the evenings only. Now that Tapas has become a popular concept that is attracting a new generation of patrons who have grown fond of the idea of dinner being a little food, a little wine, digested with a bout of lively conversation. In Vancouver, Tapas has evolved into proper supper instead of what it was intended to be originally - the Spanish equivalent of the North American “Happy Hour”. But don’t worry, Paco is determined to keep tradition alive with his uncomplicated, rustic dishes. At La Bodega, even the menus are in Spanish although patrons are given a bit of help with some cryptic English descriptions. Here are a few of Paco’s personal recommendations for your consideration. |
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01 Paella
Apart from tapas, there are main dishes on the La Bodega menu. Quintessentially Spanish, Paella is rice cooked in a traditional shallow pan in stock and saffron with seafood and meats. Here it comes with mussels, clams, and chicken.
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Jamon is a famous type of ham from Spain. Similar to Italian Prociutto, the leg of pork is marinated in salt, spices and paprika then wind-dry for many weeks. The Jamon is served with crusty bread spread with a dollop of tomato sauce which brings out the saltiness of the ham in perfect balance.
03 Gambas al Ajillo
Whole prawns come impressively sizzling to the table in a cast iron bowl. Plump and crunchy, they are drenched in garlic butter and spiked with just the right touch of red chillies. Be careful not to burn yourself!
04 Sangria
This Spanish punch is on nearly every table. A blend of red wine, brandy, orange and fruit juices and sparkling water, this traditional favourite is smooth and goes down deceptively easily, so watch out.
05 Mejillones Picantes
Spanish tapas come both hot and cold. Here’s a plate of chilled mussels with Piquant sauce, eggs, chopped onions, red bell peppers and garlic. Don’t forget to finish the delicious sea-sweet and sour sauce after you’ve eaten the mussels.
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La Bodega Restaurante & Tapa-Bar
1277 Howe Street, Vancouver
604-684-8814 / 604-684-8815 | |
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Izakayas are an important part of Japanese food culture and lifestyle. Getting together over a few beers and some small plates is the way many Japanese workers relax and entertain themselves after work. As it gets later in the evening, it is not uncommon to find a number of salary men and women wandering the city streets a bit tipsy from too much drink. In a way this ritual is very similar to the tapas bar-hopping routine of the Spanish. In fact, it can be said that Izakayas are, in effect, Japan tapas bars.
In Vancouver, many people relate Japanese food to sushi. But at Nan Chuu, located on Richmond’s “Food Street” – Alexander Road – the focus is Japanese small bites, Izakaya-style. You won’t find sushi on the menu here. As you enter, you’ll find a brigade of bandana-ed young Japanese chefs hard at work in the open kitchen. The exposed wood beams that dominate the décor and the dimmed incandescent lighting further capture the bustling atmosphere of an authentic Izakaya.
Nan Chuu’s owner, Tinn, believes that the trend in restaurants is towards offering more variety in smaller portions, and that’s why the Tapas format has become so popular in recent years. The Japanese concept of Izakaya fits this new food fashion perfectly. Business is good and customers are happy, says Tinn. At Nan Chuu, variety is key. In addition to the menu, they offer a roster of seasonal specials and daily chef’s specials as well. Operating hours are also Izakaya-style - 5:30pm to 1:00am – making it a great place to meet up with a few good friends and while away the night. |
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01 Salmon Yukke
Finely chopped Atlantic salmon, which is rich in fat, is served tartar-style with Korean Yukke sauce on the side. To eat, just mix the salmon, the sauce, and the quail egg together. Wrap the mixture in nori and enjoy. The texture is creamy and soft, the sauce is lightly sweet and hot with a touch of sesame. Delicious. |
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02 Assorted Oden
Nan Chuu’s Kanto-style Oden offers about ten varieties. The all important soup base is house-made bonito dashi. Once the soup base is made, the ingredients are added and allow to simmer for two hours so that they absorb all the flavours of the stock – the secret to good oden. Try the Gobomaki which is a fish mousse wrapped around pieces of burdock root. It’s tasty and really reminds one of Japan.
04 Ox Tail
It’s not common to find oxtail featured on Izakaya menus, but here it’s a customer favourite. The oxtail is braised then finished with garlic sauce and served with a green salad tossed with a sesame dressing on the side.
05 Green Tea Mousse
Japanese desserts are not only tasty, they are usually beautiful to look at. Here, the bright green of the matcha mousse is showed off by the snow white Mascarpone Cream and dark red azuki beans. In the mouth, the vibrant flavour of green tea is smooth by the sweetness of the cheese. This is a perfect ending to dinner.
06 Chestnut Mousse
The owner of Nan Chuu also owns a coffee and dessert shop in town, so it stands to reason that we can expect their desserts to be nothing short of professional. This treat that is drawing repeat customers consists of a layer of sponge cake topped with chestnut mousse then slathered with chestnut-flavoured whipped cream. No wonder many find it irresistible. |
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03 Scallop Carpaccio
Carpaccio is a classic Italian appetizer of thinly sliced beef topped with savoury condiments. This Japanese “Carpaccio” features thinly sliced scallops drizzled with three sauces: mayonnaise, sea urchin sauce and yuzu juice. It is then decorated with a sprinkling of crab roe.
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南廚Nan Chuu
1160 8391 Alexandra Road, Richmond
604-276-8391 |
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